Ginger Jeans
Sorry this has taken a while to post... I finished my first pair of jeans before Xmas, but have been busy with a big non-sewing related thing that I'm working on, so haven't had much time to blog. Anyway, here are my thoughts on the Ginger Jeans from Closet Case Patterns...
Firstly, I LOVE the fit! I cannot believe how easy it was to get the right fit by following Heather Lou's advice on the Closet Case Sew Your Dream Jeans online class. Although the pattern instructions are also really good, the online class gives you some extra advice on fitting etc. (and you can see it in process). Although I didn't use it, I think that there is also a sew along on the website so this might be another way to access hints and tips as you sew the jeans. I made a swayback adjustment on this pair and also shortened the crotch by a very small amount, and I'm so pleased with the fit.
I think it's worth listing the things that I have learned/would do differently next time (and I will definitely be making another pair!):
1. Topstitching
My machine (a 15+ year old Toyota) did not like topstitching. I used topstitching needles, Gutermann topstitching thread, used a longer stitch, adjusted the tension (as much as my inexperience allowed for!) and still, my machine chewed the thread on the back side or pulled the yellow through to the back a little (I used normal navy sewing thread in my bobbin as I'd read that this was okay to do). I tried to use a 'stitch in the ditch' foot to help with measuring the spacing of the double rows, but the extra little metal piece kept catching on the denim and jamming my sewing!
So, I sought out the advice of Instagram sewists and Ella (@sewistella) and Joy (@pinkcoatclub) were kind enough to point jeans-makers in my direction to give me some advice. Hayley (@ohsoshesews) and Zoe (@zoesews) both recommended that I double-up my regular thread (into one needle) rather than use topstitching thread and this seemed to work! Now, I need to work on my straight stitching! I absolutely love the sewing community - thank you Ella, Hayley and Zoe for your help! Zoe has a great top tips blog post on sewing Ginger Jeans on the Sew Me Sunshine blog here.
2. Back Pockets
Make sure that, if you are adding pockets first (as in the instructions, but not as per the online class) that you take into account the double-lined topstitching in your measurements. As you can see below, I measured the pockets from the centre seam line, as I hadn't done the topstitching and didn't think about it at all. So, despite them being equidistant from the centre seam, they don't look even!!
3. Waistband Interfacing
As this was my "test pair" I thought I would leave out the interfacing in the waistband. Big mistake! After a day of wear, I realised that the waistband was folding up a little and digging into my side. These are made from a lightweight (low-cost) denim so I really needed to interface them! I think this has also affected how my waistband sits at my waist around the buttonhole (which is also impeded by my inability to sew a straight corner!!) I did add a little bit of interfacing at the buttonhole, but probably not enough, in hindsight.
4. The Right Tools
I don't have a tailor's ham, a clapper (to press seams) or the spike that makes holes for buttons/rivets (I did a dodgy job of this task with my seam ripper!). These three things would have been really useful. I really should make that tailor's ham...
Overall verdict is love, love love! I already have a heavier, better quality stretch denim lined up for my next pair. The larger pocket lining that acts as extra support around the stomach is also really flattering and a nice touch. There is nothing like being able to finally make a pair of jeans that fit my shape! I've added another pair onto my #2018MakeNine for this year (and also a pair of Morgan jeans).
Firstly, I LOVE the fit! I cannot believe how easy it was to get the right fit by following Heather Lou's advice on the Closet Case Sew Your Dream Jeans online class. Although the pattern instructions are also really good, the online class gives you some extra advice on fitting etc. (and you can see it in process). Although I didn't use it, I think that there is also a sew along on the website so this might be another way to access hints and tips as you sew the jeans. I made a swayback adjustment on this pair and also shortened the crotch by a very small amount, and I'm so pleased with the fit.
I think it's worth listing the things that I have learned/would do differently next time (and I will definitely be making another pair!):
1. Topstitching
My machine (a 15+ year old Toyota) did not like topstitching. I used topstitching needles, Gutermann topstitching thread, used a longer stitch, adjusted the tension (as much as my inexperience allowed for!) and still, my machine chewed the thread on the back side or pulled the yellow through to the back a little (I used normal navy sewing thread in my bobbin as I'd read that this was okay to do). I tried to use a 'stitch in the ditch' foot to help with measuring the spacing of the double rows, but the extra little metal piece kept catching on the denim and jamming my sewing!
So, I sought out the advice of Instagram sewists and Ella (@sewistella) and Joy (@pinkcoatclub) were kind enough to point jeans-makers in my direction to give me some advice. Hayley (@ohsoshesews) and Zoe (@zoesews) both recommended that I double-up my regular thread (into one needle) rather than use topstitching thread and this seemed to work! Now, I need to work on my straight stitching! I absolutely love the sewing community - thank you Ella, Hayley and Zoe for your help! Zoe has a great top tips blog post on sewing Ginger Jeans on the Sew Me Sunshine blog here.
2. Back Pockets
Make sure that, if you are adding pockets first (as in the instructions, but not as per the online class) that you take into account the double-lined topstitching in your measurements. As you can see below, I measured the pockets from the centre seam line, as I hadn't done the topstitching and didn't think about it at all. So, despite them being equidistant from the centre seam, they don't look even!!
3. Waistband Interfacing
As this was my "test pair" I thought I would leave out the interfacing in the waistband. Big mistake! After a day of wear, I realised that the waistband was folding up a little and digging into my side. These are made from a lightweight (low-cost) denim so I really needed to interface them! I think this has also affected how my waistband sits at my waist around the buttonhole (which is also impeded by my inability to sew a straight corner!!) I did add a little bit of interfacing at the buttonhole, but probably not enough, in hindsight.
4. The Right Tools
I don't have a tailor's ham, a clapper (to press seams) or the spike that makes holes for buttons/rivets (I did a dodgy job of this task with my seam ripper!). These three things would have been really useful. I really should make that tailor's ham...
Overall verdict is love, love love! I already have a heavier, better quality stretch denim lined up for my next pair. The larger pocket lining that acts as extra support around the stomach is also really flattering and a nice touch. There is nothing like being able to finally make a pair of jeans that fit my shape! I've added another pair onto my #2018MakeNine for this year (and also a pair of Morgan jeans).
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